Raw Milk FAQs

Interested in raw milk but still have questions?
 
Here are the answers to our most common FAQs.  
 
If you are interested in learning more or would like to try raw milk, please let us know.
 

  • Is raw milk legal?

    • While pasteurized milk falls under federal law, the legality of raw milk falls under state jurisdiction. As a result, you will need to check the rules for your state. In our state of Minnesota, milk and cream can be purchased directly on the farm.

 

  • Is raw milk safe?

    • Recently, researchers from Canada and Europe have studied the safety of raw milk intended for direct human consumption. They have found that carefully produced raw milk is a low-risk food which is fundamentally different from milk intended for pasteurization.

    • For more details on raw milk safety check out the Raw Milk Institute website.

    • As raw milk producers, we pay close attention to the health of our cows and follow cleaning and testing standards as recommended by the Raw Milk Institute.

 

  • How to schedule

    • Milk production will fluctuate through the year depending on when cows have their calves. Typically it peaks mid summer right after the spring calving is completed and while the animals are out on pasture. This is the perfect time to try getting into raw milk. Milk production tends to drop in the winter so fewer people are added and we usually have a wait-list at that time.

    • We require people to reserve their milk ahead of time and bring their own containers during our designated store/pick up hours. You can either have a standing order or reserve when needed. If you are interested in more info, let us know.

 

  • How to clean jars

    • Jar cleanliness will affect the shelf life, quality, and safety of your milk. Improperly washed jars can contaminate the milk, produce odd flavors, and cause it to sour much quicker.

    • Check your jars before going to the farm. Most of the time people are great about bringing in pristinely clean jars. But there are also times that I’ve seen jars not properly cleaned including residual milk fat, soap, other residue, dirty rims, moldy lids, bugs or pet hair inside.

 

  • Notes for washing

    • The jars do not need to be sterilized although it is a nice option.

    • Wide mouth mason jars are recommended since they’re easy to clean either by hand or by dishwasher.

    • I recommend pre-washing new jars before using.

    • If hand washing, use hot water and a bottle brush to clean the corners and neck of the jar and scrub the rim.

    • When using the dishwasher, avoid loading jars in the corners since sometimes the water doesn’t get inside the whole jar.

    • Rinsing the milk out of jars immediately after emptying will make the wash job a lot easier.

    • Make sure the lid is thoroughly cleaned. If your lid has a gasket, remove, clean, and allow it to dry before re-assembling.

    • Allow the jar to air dry. Avoid putting lids on hot, wet jars which can cause mold growth.

 

  • How to transport

    • We recommend a sturdy box, bag, or cooler. Also using cardboard or towels to avoid clanging and cracking jars is helpful.

    • For the best shelf life, keep the milk cold. If you live more than a half hour away, it’s best if you bring a cooler. If it’s longer or you have other stops to make on the way home, use ice, ice packs, or pre chill your jars.

 

  • How to store

    • Ideal temperature is 38-40F.

    • Store unopened jars in the back of the fridge where it’s coldest.

 

  • How long will it keep in the fridge?

    • It can last anywhere from 1-4 weeks depending on a number of factors. We recommend going through it in 2 weeks for best quality.

    • Jar cleanliness

    • How well it is kept cold.

    • How often the jar is opened and exposed to the air

    • If you drink small quantities of milk at a time, use smaller jars for a longer shelf life so less milk is open at a time.

    • Farm factors such as milking process, chilling process, and udder health also affect milk shelf life. This will be discussed in another blog.

 

  • Can you freeze it?

    • Yes. If using a glass mason jar, keep the milk level below the curve of the jar and keep the lid loose to avoid cracking the jar.

    • Square, narrow mouth milk jars are not recommended.

    • Plastic containers would work well for freezing.

    • For more consistent thawing, shake the cream in before freezing.

 

  • Cream line, color changes

    • The cream will rise to the top over time. Shake the jar to mix the cream in before pouring.

    • The amount of cream will vary depending on the time of year, the breed of cows, and stage of lactation of the cow.

    • In the summer, you’ll notice the cream will have a more yellow color. This is due to the beta-carotene (vitamin A) in the fresh grass that the cows are eating.

 

  • Start slow

    • If you are new to raw milk, have dairy sensitivities, or have avoided eating dairy for more than a few months, it’s recommended to introduce raw milk slowly. Start with just a couple ounces at a time and see how your body reacts.

 

  • If you have questions or concerns, please let your farmer know right away. It is our goal to provide a safe, healthy, and delicious food for your family. If there is an issue or potential problem, we want to deal with it immediately.

Vertical Garden Planter for Your Patio

Last year we took a break from gardening to concentrate on improving our dairy farm infrastructure. However, upon receiving a GreenStalk vertical planter as a gift, we decided to make a small exception. So over this last summer and winter we tried out our compact vertical garden. During the summer we tried lettuce, celery, herbs like basil, parsley, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and mint. Also had a few flowers. We didn’t replant the lettuce for winter but managed to maintain most of the herbs and let the celery regrow after harvesting.

Pros:

  • It holds an amazing number of plants in a very small space. 6 plants per level and with the 5 level model it can hold 30plants in the tower.

  • It easily disassembles and reassembles with minimal effect on the plants.

  • It is well built and good quality construction

  • It is very stable.

  • The auto watering system was effective and very convenient.

  • We were able to grow some herbs both winter and summer.

  • Required little to no weeding.

Cons:

  • When moved indoors for the winter, we ended up losing most of the plants on the side away from the window. The planter needs to be rotated to give all the plants light or you will need to place a grow light nearby.

  • While the plants on the window side did continue growing in the wintertime it was very slow with the light from our small window. Adding a grow light nearby or placing near a larger window should speed up the growing process.

In conclusion: The garden tower was a fun addition to our normally seasonal garden. It provided us with some fresh herbs and spices year around and I look forward to improving our setup and expanding it in the future.

If you have limited space or don’t want to lose your whole garden when winter rolls around this could be a good option for you as well.

List of Supplies

GreenStalk Garden Tower: 5 Level 30 plant Garden Tower

GreenStalk Spinning Base: Spinning base with lockable wheels 300lb rating.

Grow Light: 30W LED Grow Lights with clip on base.

Heirloom Non-GMO Herbal Seed Kit: Anise, Bouquet Dill, Broadleaf Sage, Chives, Cilantro, Common Mint, Curled Chervil, Evergreen Bunching Nabuka Onion, Florence Fennel, Garlic Chives, Genovese Basil, German Thyme, Italian Giant Parsley, Rosemary, Sweet Basil.

Heirloom Non-GMO Vegetable Seeds: Carrots, Leek, Onions, Radish, Arugula, Chives, Collard, Lettuce, Peppercress, Sorrel, Spinach, Swiss Chard

30 Culinary Herbs & Edible Flower Seeds Pack: : Basil Italian, Basil Lemon, Basil Purple, Basil Thai, Bergamot, Borage, Calendula, California Poppy, Cape Forget-Me-Not, Catnip, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro, Dill, Echinacea, Fennel, Hyssop, Italian Parsley, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mountain Mint, Peppermint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Summer Savory, Tarragon, Thyme, Zinnia,

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Emergency Livestock Fencing

Emergency Livestock Fencing

These fences have saved us so many times. We use them almost constantly during the summer. Sometimes they are used for rotational grazing. Other times they are used to patch broken spots in the fence while you fix them. Or to keep the cattle out of the way while taking down a tree. We even use them to catch the cattle when they break a fence. They are so fast to put up we can quickly run a wide circle around the cattle with the Smart Fence and trap them before they figure out what is going on.

Hot Chocolate Recipes

"Mom, can we make hot cocoa?"

I get this question almost every day, lately.

It's always been a favorite winter treat in our family.

Who doesn't like a steamy cup of hot chocolate after playing in the snow?

And it's so easy, right?

Warm up some milk, stir in a packet of your favorite mix, and voila!

But wait!

Have you SEEN the ingredient lists of popular hot cocoa brands?

Corn syrup
Hydrogenated oils
Heat processed dairy powder
Plus other additives

Yuck!

We can do better than that!

With just a few minutes of prep, you can make your own hot cocoa the whole family will enjoy!


Hot Cocoa Mix
1 cup cocoa powder
1 cup sugar
3-4 packets of stevia (for more natural sweetness if desired.)
1 tsp salt

Mix and store in a pint jar.
Add 1-2 Tbsp per 8oz of warm milk
Stir till dissolved.

This would make wonderful gifts for all the chocolate lovers in your life!

If you want to avoid processed sugar, try this recipe.

Simple Hot Chocolate
1 cup milk
1 Tbsp maple syrup or honey
1 Tbsp cocoa powder
1/4 tsp vanilla extract

Place all ingredients in a medium pot and whisk to combine over medium heat; do not boil.
Serve immediately in mugs, garnishing with peppermint stir sticks and whipped cream if desired.
To make a larger quantity, double or triple the recipe as necessary.

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Emergency Power for Your Home or Homestead

With all the uncertainty in this world everyone should have a basic power backup system in case something happens. It could be a tornado like what happened for my family. A gas crisis as happened in the UK or an electric power crisis as is happening in China, Mexico, Puerto Rico, California and Texas. Don’t be at the mercy of the power company if there is a shortage and they jack up prices. Whatever the emergency, it always pays to be prepared!

What makes a good backup power system?

  • Multiple fuel options

  • Expandable

  • Doesn’t require constant use of fuel

  • Powers a wide variety of appliances (120&240V)

  • Best value for your $

Here are 3 types of systems.

  1. A full solar and battery backup system. Costs up to $35k. Only has 1 fuel option. Can be expanded and doesn’t require a constant use of fuel but has a very high startup cost. It also requires lots of permanent infrastructure to the house/property.

  2. A 13kw Tri-Fuel Backup Generator. Costs about $2,000. Has 3 fuel options (Natural Gas, Propane, Gasoline). Not easily expanded. Requires the constant use of fuel. Should be able to power everything you need and works great for short term emergencies. However long term emergencies where there are fuel shortages could be a challenge but the versatility in fuel type should give you an advantage over everyone else.

  3. 5.5kw Generator with 2Kw Solar and Battery. Costs about $3000. Has 3 fuel options, (Solar, Propane, Gasoline). You only need to run the generator occasionally to run high power items and for extra battery charge during high usage projects. The energy storage can also be expanded for your specific needs.

So what backup power system is the best?

Really it depends on your resources and and your specific needs. No matter what option you picked it is 1000 times better than having nothing. Still, my favorite overall option for value and flexibility is Option 3. It can power everything you need in an emergency, is portable, has the largest variety of fuel options. It is also the best value for capabilities and can be purchased one piece at a time.

5.5kW Dual Fuel Hybrid Generator

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Raising Broiler Chicks - Getting Started

Steps 1-4 should be completed January to March. Earlier is better.

  1. How many can you handle? If you are new to raising broilers start off with 20-60 early in the season. If you want more later in the year you can always get a second batch in.

  2. Select the chicken breeds. We use Cornish Cross, There are a couple farmers who will use Rangers for more of a heritage type breed but they take longer and are more expensive to grow.

  3. When should they be ready by? To avoid cold weather losses your butcher date should probably be between end of July to end of September. Check with your butcher to see what slots they have available. You may need to schedule 6-8 months in advance.

  4. Calculate when to have the chicks delivered. If they are Cornish Cross then subtract 8 weeks from the butcher date to get the delivery date. For other breeds check the supplier website to see the recommended butcher age.

  5. Four weeks before they arrive make sure you have shelters, heat lamps, & feeders ready for them. Expect to have 1 heat lamp, feeder and waterer per 35 chicks as well as 1/3 sq foot/chick of indoor/garage space for the first 3 weeks. A 2ft tall x 4 ft wide and 4 ft long box should handle 50 chicks for starting out. Get one 50lb bag of chick starter per 100 chicks and feed it until it runs out. Get 2 bags of coarse pine shavings per 50 chicks. You will end up using about 15lbs of broiler feed per broiler if using Cornish Cross.

    Waterer:

    Chick Feeders:

    2 Large Chicken Feeder:

    Small Chick Waterer:

    Water Pebbles: To keep the chicks from falling in the water.

    Large Chicken Waterer:

    2 Heat Lamps: Be sure they are rated for 250W

    2 Heat Bulbs: Get the 250W ones.

    Wood Shavings:

    Chick Starter: https://luxemburgfeedservice.com/collections/non-gmo-feeds/products/lux-21-no-corn-no-soy-chick-starter

    Chick Feed: https://luxemburgfeedservice.com/collections/non-gmo-feeds/products/lux-no-corn-no-soy-broiler-19

  6. When the chicks arrive take them out of the shipping box one at a time and dip their beaks in the water to make sure they learn how to drink. Count them and see how many survived. It is normal for 1 or 2 to die on the trip so the hatchery will typically send you a few extra.

  7. Water and feed the chicks morning and night for the first 3 weeks. Check with your local feed mill/grain elevator for the best price. Towards the end of the 3 weeks the chicks might start flying out of their box. Keep some hardware cloth on hand to cover the top if necessary.

  8. After the three weeks indoors you will need an outdoor shelter, a 5 gallon waterer, and 2 two gallon feeders. If it is chicken tractor style you will need 1.5 sqft per bird. a 8x8ft chicken tractor can handle up to 40 birds. Otherwise if you are using the fenced technique an 8x8 shelter can cover 100 chickens.

    Chicken Tractor Designs: https://barngeek.com/chicken-coop-library/chicken-tractor-6x10

    Or my favorite electric fence setup.

    Solar Electric Fence Energizer

    Electric Chicken Fencing

  9. Once they are 3-4 weeks old move them to the outdoor shelter.

  10. Ideally check on them morning and night for the next 5 weeks. Depending on the shelter type and how big they are you may need to move them twice a day or once every 2-3 days.

  11. Do not feed the chickens the night before the butcher. Move them into a smaller fence so it will be easier to catch them.

  12. If your butcher is offsite you will need to put the chickens in boxes early the next morning to be transported. If the butcher is mobile and is coming to your farm you will need to have a water line available and a power cord near the chickens. If you are butchering them yourself don’t worry about this step.

This covers the basic steps for raising your broiler chickens. Please contact us if you have any questions.

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Getting Started Raising Pigs

Want to start raising pigs but aren’t sure where to start? Here are some tips and a list of supplies at the bottom.

Piglets

  • First you should start small. I recommend starting with 2 or 3 piglets so they can socialize with each other a bit. It helps keep them out of trouble while still keeping your initial investment and work to a minimum.

  • Start looking early but try to get the piglets around the end of March through May. Note that there is a lot of demand at this time of the year. You may need to pay up to $120/piglet. Try to shoot for $90 or less if possible but don’t wait to long. They only get harder to find as the spring gets into full swing.

  • Be sure to watch the weather. Ideally you want to get them after the nights stop freezing.

  • Try to select either gilts or castrated males (barrows). You don’t want to deal with a boar or castrating your piglets when getting started.

  • When starting they should be 6+ weeks old or between 40-60 lbs.

  • If they are less than 6 weeks or less than 40lbs and the nights are freezing you should have a shelter with 2 Heat Lamps can hold them over.

  • Breeds: Select either Berkshire, Spot, Durocks, Hampshires or Yorkshires so you can finish them before winter rolls around. We personally prefer cross bred pigs to make them a little more hardy.

  • Make sure there aren’t any large bulges in the skin near the belly button or near the pigs bottom. Hernia can give you a really bad start when raising pigs.

  • Make sure they are active. You don’t want a pig that just sits in a corner or moves slowly.

Setup a butcher date ASAP:

As soon as you have your pigs contact your local butchers and find a date around October. Don’t delay on this! Many butchers have been booked out 6 months to a year. The longer you wait to setup a butcher date the further you will have to travel to find a butcher. When it is time to bring the pig to the butcher remember to contact them about a week ahead of time and ask about the cut sheet. They can help you figure out what cuts or options you want. Also if you want the lard be sure to ask for it. Many butchers don’t send it unless it is specifically requested.

Pig Feed

We started out with the Luxembourg feed Non-GMO, Corn-free, Soy-free feed. It worked out quite well. The primary ingredients are Flax meal, Peas, Wheat and Barley plus molasses and a vitamin/mineral mix. You will want 2 Medium Rubber Pans and 2 Large Rubber Pans to feed and water them.

Shelter/Shade

Even once the nights have stopped freezing it will be necessary to give them either a shelter or a shade. Pigs sunburn easily. Especially if they have white skin. A simple A-frame made out of plywood and a couple 2x4s would be plenty. If you have trees in the pasture they can do just fine as long as they have plenty of shade to protect them from the sun.

Wallow

Once the days and nights get above 70F it will be necessary to setup a wallow or a sprinkler for them. Pigs can’t sweat so the only way they can stay cool is by sitting in water or mud. They can make quite a mess so try to keep them away from your nice lawns during this season.

Fence

Start out with a hog fence setup. Even if you eventually switch to electric you will always need the hog panels until they get trained to electric fences. It is a really bad idea to put pigs straight into an electric fence when moving them or bringing them home.

Start off with 4 hog panels attached to each other in a square using the small clips. As the panels slowly get bent and used you will need to switch to the larger ones. Then when they are ready to be moved to new pasture add additional panels in the direction you wish to move and open the fence. Once they move to the new section you can shut the panel again and disassemble the first section.

It is a bit of a hassle to move the pigs but is much less likely to have the pigs escape than with an electric fence. Plus a good electric fencer costs around $500 and you will need the hog panels anyway just to train them in. Start off with the hog panels the first year and if you want to expand the following year consider getting a good quality solar fencer at that time.

Note: How fast and frequently the pigs need to be moved will change depending on their size and how thick the brush is for them to eat. Don’t leave them in one spot for more than 12 days and as stuff grows back don’t put them back in the same spot for 60 days to prevent parasite infection.

Last of all: Don’t name your supper!!!

It can be a little hard for the family when butcher time rolls around if you named the pig and it became a pet. If you really want to name it pick something that keeps the relationship in mind. For example, growing up our beef cattle got names like Sir Loin, or Duke of Salbury (the sauce). It makes it a lot less traumatic for the kids when supper time rolls around. :) Plus, we had fun explaining to our friends why the roast was actually called Sirloin. :)

List of Supplies

2 Medium Rubber Pans

2 Large Rubber Pans

9 Hog Panels

20 Small Clips

20 Large Clips

2 Heat Lamps: Be sure they are rated for 250W

2 Heat Bulbs: Get the 250W ones.


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Cure for the common virus? Well maybe at least for the wart virus.

A few years ago a friend had a small bump appear on his neck. Didn’t worry about it until it started to spread across where he shaved his beard. Eventually, he went to the doctor and was told it was warts. By that time he had about 30 spread across his lower neck. The doctor painted a solution on and said since they were small this should kill them. Unfortunately it only slowed them down. They came back pretty quickly. Over the next year they tried freezing them with nitrogen and burning them with salicylic acid dozens of times. Nothing worked and it kept spreading. By the end of the year he had around a hundred small warts on his neck.

At this point he came across a natural solution people were praising online. It was pretty darn simple. Vitamin A. There seemed to be some disagreements as to whether it was better to ingest the Vitamin A or to rub it on the wart. He decided to do both just to be thorough.

He swallowed 6 small capsules of 2400mcg Spring Valley Vitamin A and broke 10 capsules and spread it on his neck each night. He also swallowed 2 1000IU Spring Valley Vitamin D capsules.

The results were absolutely amazing!!!

In 4 days 80% of the small warts were gone. In 10 days they were all gone.

He continued taking the Vitamin A for an additional 3 weeks.

That was 6 years ago and he hasn’t seen one since.

He had spent a year experimenting with the standard treatments and all he needed was some Vitamin A?

The interesting part is that warts are a HPV virus. It can enter through any cut in the skin and cause an infection resulting in a wart. It can also be hard to get rid of if you have a weak immune system.

If Vitamin A is so effective against the HPV virus, I wonder what it can do against the common cold? Is this the reason some people never catch a cold? Because they have higher levels of Vitamin A?

I know several people who have tried this out and so far it has worked like a charm.

Note: The quantities of vitamins he took were higher than your standard daily dose. Check with your doctor before ingesting large quantities of vitamins. Especially if you are pregnant.

As an alternative, a band aid with some Vitamin A placed over the wart has also appeared effective against planter warts in our limited experiments, although it took a couple weeks for the larger ones.

Standard Disclaimer: These claims have not been evaluated by the FDA. I do not claim that these cure or prevent any diseases. :)

If you could share your successes and failures with Vitamin A & D in the comments below it would be great. I would especially like to hear about your Vitamin A & D levels if you didn’t show symptoms or only had light cases of Covid in the past.

Here is the Vitamin A he used. Nothing fancy but it was effective.

Here is the Vitamin D he used.

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Spring Cleaning on the Homestead!

In MN, spring is the only time of the year you can see everything on the ground clearly. Don’t miss this opportunity to clean your farm up the easy way. Once the grass gets thick you will have to walk across every foot of it to find stuff hiding in the grass. Not to mention that the items you pick up will be caught in the weeds and roots and will be much harder to pick up once they are found. Especially baling twine!